While newborn kids rest under red heating lamps, Laura Chenel gives milk to a new floppy-eared member of her herd of over 500 goats at her ranch and cheesmaking facility in Sonoma. The "matriarch' of Sonoma County cheese, Chenel started the first french-style goat cheese production in the U.S 25 years ago with a small herd and a sadness over throwing out good milk.

John Burgess, Santa Rosa Press Democrat